QUICK BITE|PELHAM
By Emily DeNitto
Pubilshed: October 26, 2008

The Theme Is Tea

It isn't often that one can combine homeyness with a bit of escapism. But at Lola’s Tea House, a new salon in Pelham, themed afternoon teas allow customers to do just that. A traditional English afternoon tea ($25 per person or $30 shared) is always available. So, too, is a Cream Tea, which includes two scones, lemon curd and Devonshire cream, seasonal fruit, and, of course, a pot of tea ($10). Here’s the adventurous part: on occasional weekends, Lola’s also offers afternoon teas like those enjoyed in Morocco, China or France ($30 per person or $35 shared).

The Moroccan tea features that country’s mint tea — very sweet and soothing — along with bistella (a chicken and almond pie); two briouats (beef-, chicken- or goat-cheese-filled pastry shells that look like cigars); carrot and raisin salad; and a selection of desserts. For the Chinese tea, try the green tea called Gun Powder or an oolong (you get to choose among several). Miniature roast pork buns, won tons, egg rolls, shredded cabbage salad and green-tea ice cream are included. And the French tea consists of croissants or brioches, raisin-nut bread with melted cheese, a salad and French pastries. Pick a strong Darjeeling or, again, an oolong as accompaniment.

Culinary travel is part of the mission at Lola’s, said Leslie Allicks, the owner: “I wanted to create a place where people could come to escape the frazzle of their daily lives. You know, sit down, take a deep breath, and go someplace else for a while.”

Tea is “part of our ancestral story,” said Ms. Allicks, whose family hails from St. Croix. “Done the king’s way. No meal is complete without it — it just has a calming effect.”

Lola’s Tea House, 130 Fifth Avenue, Pelham; (914) 738-2100 or www.lolasteahouse.com. Open Tuesday to Sunday, noon to 8 p.m.